Talk:Woodturning

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Untitled

I was looking for the source for information about the MT2 or Morris Taper used in wood lathes today. Does any one have a source?

Just added this first entry as a placeholder. Will seek someone to write a detailed article. - Anon Just rewrote the introductory section. Aiming for an overview of the craft for the non-practitioner, particularly how woodturning differs from other uses of a lathe. The turningpage, for example, shoots right into issues for the metal-working machinist's lathe and CNC equipment. The wood lathe is both an antecedent of that equipment, and a technology that continues to evolve in its own right.KayLiggett (talk) 15:58, 11 December 2016 (UTC)[reply]

There is so much information in this article. Maybe someone who knows more about the subject could explain some of the terminology (for instance, "beads", "coves", etc), whether within the article or in separate articles? Avocado 23:27, Apr 4, 2005 (UTC) Here ya go--see if the new Techniques section clarifies some of it. KayLiggett (talk) 17:53, 15 December 2016 (UTC)[reply]

Please note that the Egyptian pic has been listed for speedy deletion because of the mispelling in it. I have not deleted for now, but can anyone fix it? Filiocht | Blarneyman 11:09, Jun 3, 2005 (UTC)

unknown tool

I have this tool that is basicly a rounded skew, and I'd like to know the name of it. I often use it as you would a lady-finger gouge, in making beads. Here's a few pictures:

Please reply with what you think it is. Kamocat 20:07, 27 December 2006 (UTC)[reply]

I don't know much about woodturning, but this is a scraper. I found details on how to sharpen it in Leonard Lee's shrapening book. You need to turn a burr on it like a regular card scraper. Luigizanasi 07:18, 29 December 2006 (UTC)[reply]

This is a woodturning tool! I feel silly answering myself, but it's a roundnosed turning chisel. I found this in a book, woodshop tool maintenance by Cunningham and Holtrop, page 66 to 68. 131.191.89.250 02:48, 2 January 2007 (UTC)[reply]

I should have specified that, according to Lee, it is a woodturning tool, to be used on a lathe. :-) Do Cunningham & Holthorp say how to sharpen it? Luigizanasi 16:25, 3 January 2007 (UTC)[reply]

Having done quite a bit of turning, I would call this tool a scraper (specifically a roundnose scraper), not a chisel. It is not a skew or skew chisel. If someone can refer me to the page of Leonard Lee's excellent book where he says chisel, I can probably explain his calling it that, as soon as I find my copy. :) The tool would be sharpened by (a) flattening the face if needed; (b) regrinding the bevel; (c) optionally creating a burr with, say, a burnishing rod. I say "optionally" because a burr of sorts is created anyway by step (b). Also, some woodturners prefer using the tool without a burr. They might take an incidental burr off, or just not worry about it.

Joe V. 17:50, 14 September 2007 (UTC)[reply]

Musical Instruments

I am surprised that this page has existed this long, and still made no mention of musical instruments that are made by turning ie. woodwinds... I added it. Spettro9 (talk) 23:30, 21 February 2009 (UTC)[reply]

spindle and faceplate turning

list of some content i commented out as part of editing it may belong in another place in this artical.

Spindle turning is named for the type of product originally produced, while faceplate turning is named for an early method of ataching the material to the lathe. needs verification editing for content may be needed elsewhere in article.
The distinction between spindle turning and faceplate turning is due to the fibrous nature of the material. The distinction is based on how the wood is held in the lathe depending on the object beeing turned and the goals of the turner. the rest of this paragraph may need editing in to the article it needs sources but its all true, just not related to how the wood is mounted paragraph folows

When wood is cut in such a way that the fiber being cut is not supported by the fiber below it, it tends to separate and tear. This "tearout" exhibits a rough, highly damaged looking surface texture and greatly reduces the value of any product exhibiting it. The direction of cut is different in spindle turning and faceplate turning because cutting in the wrong direction can cause tearout. Spindle turning cuts are made from high points toward the axis on the outside of the piece, and from the axis toward the outside when hollowing. When faceplate turning, the opposite applies.when working on the interior of the wood i believe this is true

When faceplate turning, the opposite applies. when working on the interior of the wood i believe this is true

the artical is not bad but it needs some more editing Eadthem (talk) 04:20, 10 May 2009 (UTC) -I took these paragraphs out of the introductory section--they belong in a section for techniques. True, but in need of editing and a citation. I will do that.KayLiggett (talk) 16:04, 11 December 2016 (UTC)[reply]

External Links

Woodworking Plans - Best Information and Reviews for Woodworking Plans. This one appears to be spam to sell CD's --99.120.148.246 (talk) 04:49, 8 December 2011 (UTC)[reply]

Grammar?

"A - Aside - make sure you are stood " - uhh, can someone correct this? 121.216.103.244 (talk) 15:25, 28 October 2012 (UTC)[reply]

Another "Other techniques" needed.

It is possible to turn "half columns" by constructing the blank stock out of two pieces. The two pieces are either glued together with a non-waterproof glue or screwed together. If glued, the pieces are easier to separate afterwards if they are glued together with a sheet of newspaper between them. Great care then needs to be used to make sure that the stock is mounted in the lathe with the centre of rotation passing exactly through the join. Once the piece is turned, the two pieces are separated, either by soaking in water (if glued) or unscrewing. 121.216.103.244 (talk) 15:32, 28 October 2012 (UTC)[reply]

Still more "other techniques".

Inlaying. Small pieces of other materials, often of contrasting colours and/or textures and of any cross-sectional shape, are inserted into the blank prior to turning. Suitable materials can include timber (both the same as the stock and/or different), hard plastics (too soft plastics do not cut well), moderately soft metals (aluminium, copper, brass), polyester filler. The end result cross-sectional shape can be varied by inserting the inlay at different angles. Especially when combined with segmented turning, this can produce spectacularly colourful work. When using metal inlays, even greater care than usual must be taken to ensure that cutting tools are (and remain) sharp, and that only very shallow cuts are made, to avoid tearing the inlay out of the stock. When using this technique to make thin-walled pieces such as bowls, consideration must be given as to whether the inlay is to be visible on both surfaces, or only on one. This is especially important when using transparent inlays such as plastic. 121.216.103.244 (talk) 15:59, 28 October 2012 (UTC)[reply]

Punctuation and rewords in Safety

Although I'm not a craftsman, I made bold changes in the spirit of Wikipedia. To improve the article, a content expert should review these edits and remove misinterpretations.

Also, the comment: "This subject continues to be debated in the community." should have clarification and citation. Gprobins (talk) 12:54, 14 October 2020 (UTC)[reply]

Draft:Therming

Hi Folks! I updated this draft article for therming, a technique using using a lathe to produce multiple copies of same kind of wood shape. It might be worth doing a merge, or perhaps keeping it as a standalone article and linking to it. Anybody any thoughts. Thanks. scope_creep^Talk 20:57, 20 January 2021 (UTC)[reply]